Albany Beef

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In my experience, no one who has ordered a fish dinner in Albany, least of all someone who has ordered it in a pleasant riverside setting, appreciates being reminded that sturgeon were once so plentiful and such an important part of the food supply that they were referred to without irony as “Albany Beef,” nor do they appreciate the intimation that that fish fry on their plate might have more river sturgeon than ocean haddock to it. But once they’re fried they all taste the same.
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